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Papa Simba Awake

Papa Simba Awake

Papa Simba Crashed After Mating

Papa Simba Crashed After Mating

SAFARI – CENTRAL SERENGETI
There’s a rhythm to your gravel and dirt road drives in the Serengeti that sorta happens after you’ve been looking at great stretches of grass that go on forever, your core working because you’re standing up as the jeep bounces around, and your eyes are straining for that single moving spot that turns out to be a rare animal, to be the one that finds what the rest of us–Wenga, our guide included–doesn’t. Irina was our eagle eyes, and it didn’t seem to matter whether she had the binoculars or not…she could and did spot a bunch of the rare stuff we saw, far more than the rest of us, except Wengapedia and his binoculars.

But this post didn’t require the eagle eyes, because we drove right up and there they were, a pride of lions whom Wenga said had recently mated. It’s mating season anyway…the boys were crashed hard, and so were the girls…all under a pair of shade trees beneath a cloudy sky.  Very NatGeo, and who am I to look the gift horse in the mouth? We snapped away. Enjoy the post and the pics!

The Serengeti Pride - 2 Guys, 3 Girls.  It Probably Got Weird.

CLICK TO EXPAND: The Serengeti Pride – 2 Guys, 3 Girls. It Probably Got Weird.

Mighty L'il Klipspringer Is King Of His Rock

Mighty L’il Klipspringer Is King Of His Rock

SAFARI – DEEP IN THE SERENGETI
A long driving day, a full 8 and then some, and as we finally drove up towards the large outcropping of rocks where our lodge awaited, the sun was setting low on the horizon, shining a light on this noble little guy, a klipspringer, who couldn’t have been more than 22-24″ tall at most, standing on his rock gazing over his domain, unmoved by the noise and the dust thrown up by our jeep. Let’s just say he appeared to have no Napoleon complex about his height. The klipspringer is a type of antelope that finds one mate for life, whom Wikipedia describes as having “an agility so extreme on crags and rocks that their most dangerous enemies are eagles and humans”. You go, little klippy, you go!

Klipspringer Up Close and Personal

Klipspringer Up Close and Personal

Cheetah Mom On A Rock

Cheetah Mom On A Rock

Cheetah Mom - Closeup

Cheetah Mom – Closeup

Cheetah Mom and Cub

Cheetah Mom (R) and Her Cub (L)

SAFARI – The SERENGETI
Wildebeests behind us, we drove for a relatively quiet hour on the plains and then all of the sudden-BOOM–cheetah…a beautiful cheetah standing on a rock, looking anxiously around, searching for prey. 15 minutes later, her cub poked his head out from a rock, and we were in love. The Serengeti is a harsh place – cheetah’s give birth to a litter of up to 4-9 cubs, but 90% of the cubs don’t survive (predators). Cheetah’s are built to run down tasty antelope, not handle nasty predators who fight back. YouTube has some amazing video on what they sound like, but among other things, they chirp like birds, and do everything EXCEPT roar. Big kitties, indeed. You never forget your first cheetah. Unfortunately, since cheetah mom never spotted a good mobile meal, we didn’t get to see her stretch her limbs and run 70mph across the plains. We relished the encounter nonetheless. Beautiful creatures.

Schoolgirl - Only 5-10% of Maasai Children Are Allowed To Go To School.

Maasai Schoolgirl — The chief told us very few Maasai children are allowed to go to school. Most have to remain home to help their families herd livestock and maintain the village.

Maasai Jumping Dance

Maasai Jumping Dance – Sandals Made oF Tire Rubber

Maasai Chief Baraaka

Maasai Chief Baraaka – University Educated And Back To Traditional Living Among His People

SAFARI – MAASAI VILLAGE VISIT
And now, for something completely different, and winding the clock back a bit. On our way out of Arusha on our first day of safari, we saw many colorful Maasai tribal people in their bright reds and blues and purples out in the fields herding cattle or goats, and we asked our driver Wenga if it was possible to visit a Maasai village. And for a relatively small price–$50, ostensibly to help fund the tribe and it’s little school–we met Chief Baraaka, who said he was chief over many villages, and just happened to be at the one we stopped at. So we were treated to a traditional Maasai welcoming and jumping dance, we joined in, then were given a tour of the small village of thatch roof huts (the women build them) smeared with cow dung for waterproofing, a tiny window, and a small fire pit in each. How do you keep the smoke out, we asked? The answer: they don’t, the smoke is used to keep the inside of the hut free of mosquitos. The chief then led us a to a small school hut, where the children counted off to ten and sang a little song. Then, of course, they led us to their little village “market”, to sell us jewelry their women had made. How authentic was the experience? Wenga said although the village supplemented their funding with tourists visits (most Maasai villages are government funded and stocked with tanks of government provided water), what we had seen was fairly authentic culture, traditions, and lifestyle. The chief and his 2 brothers were actually educated in Arusha and spoke decent to good English. We peppered them with questions about how they continue to try and live the pastoral life the tribe has always lived, while he asked us for emails.

Maasai Village With Cattle Pen Fence Made of Brambles

CLICK TO EXPAND: Maasai Village Huts With Cattle Pen Fence Made of Brambles

The Maasai have a colorful and fascinating history, and were at their greatest population in the 19th century, before colonialism and disease ultimately reduced their numbers heavily by the 20th century. They are just shy of 1 million strong in 2015 census, one of the biggest, if not the biggest tribes of the 123 in Tanzania. They are polygynous – the men can take many wives…and do. The chief indicated his father had 23 wives. Interestingly, although they have a feared warrior history among the Tanzanian tribes, they have a long aversion to slavery of any kind, and have lived among wild animals but generally don’t eat game or birds, only their cattle and sheep. So what they did when the conquered and took great swaths of land in the 19th century was displace the people who they conquered (and kill many of them). There’s far more interesting facts to be found on Maasai, but in person, we found them very polite and somewhat shy (Except the chief). The women’s dances made Caryl and Irina a little uncomfortable, but Alex and I jumped with the boys on our still jammed toes while the chief snapped pics like a paparazzo with cameras slung all over him.

Caryl, Irina, and the Maasai Women

Caryl, Irina, and the Maasai Women

Wildebeests As Far As The Eye Could See In Every Direction.

Wildebeests As Far As The Eye Could See In Every Direction. There are probably 1000 or more in this photo. We estimated at times we could see 100,000…

Wildebeests At The Watering Holes By The Side of The Road

Wildebeests At The Watering Holes By The Side of The Road

SAFARI – THE SERENGETI
We had seen scattered herds of wildebeests, zebras and gazelles on our way onto Naabi Hill, but leaving it was the true great migration spread out before us. Every year starting in January, 1.7 million wildebeests are led by 260,000 zebra from the southern Serengeti to ultimately the Kenyan plains in the summer, with around 470,000 gazelle tagging along, as well as other miscellaneous beasts of the plain, all moving towards the rains and water. Around 500,000 calves are born during a period from January to March, and around 250,000 wildebeests die during the migration (predators, exhaustion, etc) and we drove into the middle of this vast movement for several hours before the herds finally dwindled down to nothing. But…there is never “nothing” in the Serengeti – there are great winged birds flying, hyenas lying in the long grass, far off giraffes, and the occasional group of big cats sheltering under trees–or sleeping up in their branches– from the overhead sun. When the jeep would stop, we heard the bird calls or creature sounds carried on the breezes that swept the plains. It lifted our spirits to see this vast untapped and unspoiled wilderness teeming with such a profound affirmation of life on this beautiful planet of ours.

Wildebeests And Their Young Calves

BIRTHING SEASON: Wildebeests And Their Young Calves

CLICK TO SEE THE HERDS: 180 Degrees Of The Great Migration

CLICK TO SEE THE HERDS: 180 Degrees Of The Great Migration – You Can Click A Second Time To Zoom In On Beasties, Once Picture Expands

 

Mwanza Flat-headed Rock ("Spiderman") Agama Lizard At Naabi Gate In The Southern Serengeti

Mwanza Flat-headed Rock (“Spiderman”) Agama Lizard At Naabi Hill

CLICK TO EXPAND: Naabi Hill View Of the Southern Serengeti Plains

CLICK TO EXPAND: Naabi Hill View Of the Southern Serengeti Plains

SAFARI – The SERENGETI
OK, cheating a little here – two pictures, but one is to give you context where we were. After driving a couple hours out of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and into the flat southern plains of the Serengeti, we came to the first hill we’d seen for the past hour, which was the Naabi Gate – the official registration and entry point for southern entry in Tanzania. There was a little walk up some rocks to the top of the hill where we had a panoramic view all around us of the infinite green plains to the horizon. While we were up there, we saw these gorgeous rainbow lizards sunning on the rocks and doing their little pushups to show off. Now apparently the Tanzanians have taken to calling these fellows (the males are rainbow…the females a regular old lizard brown) Spiderman lizards, but I think the colors might be a little off, as they look purple and blue to me, but folks think the purple looks red? Sounds like another Internet meme “What color is that dress?” controversy.

The Unmistakeable Secretary Bird Struts The Serengeti

The Unmistakeable Secretary Bird Struts The Serengeti

SAFARI – The SERENGETI
The Serengeti is 12,000 square miles spanning Tanzania and Kenya, and more or less the size of Maryland, which is a horrible comparison, since virtually no one–in the US at least–has any idea how big Maryland is, only its little state-within-a-state District of Columbia (containing Washington DC – the US capital). Anyhow, Serengeti  comes from the rather straightforward Maasai word that means “plains that go on forever” – a very observant tribe, that one, sprinting in their rubber tire sandals and herding all their cattle on foot, including Serengeti National Park, where they are not actually allowed. Bandits!  :)

Anyhow, the secretary bird is today’s photo, and we saw his distinct strut from really far away just as we entered the Serengeti. He’s a tall dude, maybe 3+ feet high…a combo stork and eagle head, and in fact, the secretary bird is a bird of prey that interestingly, while it can fly, is actually a terrestrial attacker, clawing, stomping, and eating small rodents and mongooses that are abundant on the great plain. So why secretary bird? He’s an incredible fast typer. Jus’ kidding. I have no idea. It’s one of those names you certainly associate with this bird once you’ve seen them. I’m not even a bird guy, but I thought the birds of Africa were a super interesting mix of color, swagger, and beauty.

Maasai Village In The Valley With The Serengeti Plain On The Horizon

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE: Maasai Village In The Valley With The Serengeti Plain On The Horizon

SAFARI – NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA
I’m easing down to one picture a day, and a little blurb. We climbed out of the Ngorongoro Crater amazed by what we’d seen there, and passed through a smaller valley, dotted with Maasai thatch roof huts, Maasai driving their cattle, and up in the foothills, the now ubiquitous wildebeests and zebras with their spinning tails. Although pastorale is a musical reference, it seems apres pro for the serene pastoral setting we saw here (and everywhere, honestly). On the horizon, we could see the great Serengeti plain stretching for miles, and couldn’t imagine what we’d end up seeing there would top the Crater…but then again, we were headed straight to the Great Migration. Africa the amazing!

Out Of The Crater On The Way To The Serengeti - This Guy

Out Of The Crater On The Way To The Serengeti – This Hungry Guy

SAFARI – NGORONGORO CRATER – PART 2

  • Yeah, I know you can get burned out on too many animal pictures. One of the things I’m mixing up here to try and keep it interesting is closeups–or as I call them “The National Geographic shots”–and some wider views of the plains with the animals dotting the landscape, to give you perspective on what we saw, and reassure you this is not some open air zoo, but their homes. There is an unmistakeable vibe of peacefulness and contentment with the animals here, and though the law of the wild/circle of life still applies, the tranquility of the crater and these magnificent beasts is unmistakeable. That’s part of what makes a trip to Africa a spiritual journey of sorts. Which says a lot, since in my regular life, I’m an earthbound, pragmatic fellow in general. Moreover, if the zoos back home were hard to visit before the trip, we all agreed wed have a very tough time seeing these guys in small enclosures ever again. their spirits soared on these wide open plains, and ours with them.
Believe It Or Not, This Is A Little Antelope.

Believe It Or Not, This Is A Little Antelope.

And This Guy Is the Giant Eland...a Huge Antelope.

And This Guy Is the Giant Eland…a Huge Antelope With An Equally Huge Chin Thingamabob

BW Elephants Look Small In The Ngorongoro Crater

Even Elephants Look Small In The Plains Of The Ngorongoro Crater

Mama Simba Watching For Food

Mama Simba Watching For Food

Then She Stood Up And Wandered Over On The Road Near Our Landcruiser To Scope Out Some NEarby Zebra

Then She Stood Up And Wandered Over On The Road Near Our Landcruiser To Scope Out Some Nearby Zebra

Thomson's Gazelle Kids Playing

Thomson’s Gazelles – Clash Of The Not So Titans

Warthog Kneels To Eat

Warthog Kneels To Eat

Female Ostrich Is The Family Breadwinner

Female Ostrich Is The Family Breadwinner

While Papa Ostrich Waits For The Food From Mama

While Lazy Papa Ostrich Waits Nearby For The Food From Mama

Landcruiser Migration For Black Rhino Sighting

Landcruiser Migration For Black Rhino Sighting, But Ended Up Blocking Rhinos From Crossing The Road

Young Black Rhino

Critically Endangered, But Populations Slowly On the Rise: Young Black Rhino

Mom and Baby Zebra - Note The Coloring Difference

Mom and Baby Zebra – Note The Coloring Difference

Ngorongoro Crater Diversity Is Everywhere

Ngorongoro Crater Diversity Is Everywhere

Rainclouds and Sunbeams With Zebra and Wildbeest

Their Own Slice Of Heaven: Crater Rains and Cloudscape With Zebra and Wildbeest

Lion Cub

Lion Cub

SAFARI – Ngorongoro Crater

  • Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) is a couple hours away from Lake Manyara, and stunningly beautiful. The NCA is home to the Ngorogoro Crater, a 13 mile diameter collapsed remains of a volcanic caldera where 25,000 animals now make their home in this lush green Babylon garden. The place was simply jaw dropping, hard to believe you were not looking at a postcard–much like the Grand Canyon, except far far greener. If you need a reason to go to Africa — this is definitely it. It also happens to be the home of the critically endangered black rhino, and rhino sightings caused hordes of Land Cruisers to converge as the guides talked on their walkie-talkies. We were very fortunate to get close sightings of a mother and her young rhino son within 50 yards. Anyhow – enjoy the simply amazing pictures of this natural wonder of the world.
CLICK TO EXPAND: Panoramic of Ngorongoro Crater

CLICK TO EXPAND: Panoramic of Ngorongoro Crater

Ngorongoro Crater Portrait

Ngorongoro Crater Portrait

Zebras On The Plains of Ngorongoro Crater

Zebras On The Plains of Ngorongoro Crater

Zebra Face Forward

Zebra Face Forward

Watercolor Effect of Soft Focus:  Duck And Spotted Hyena

Watercolor Effect of Soft Focus: Duck And Spotted Hyena

Cape Buffalo Makes Happy Face - NOT

Cape Buffalo Makes Happy Face – NOT

Grey Crowned Crane - Awesome Plumage!

Grey Crowned Crane – Awesome Plumage!

Rare Black Rhino On The Plains

Rare Black Rhino On The Plains

Oxpeckers Chomping Ticks On Black Rhino

Oxpeckers Chomping Ticks On Black Rhino

Augur Buzzard - Looks Like A Falcon

Augur Buzzard – Looks Like A Falcon

Thomson's Gazelles

Thomson’s Gazelles

Young Warthogs Playing

Young Warthogs Playing

Baby Wildebeest With Mom Chilling In The Grass Nearby

Baby Wildebeest With Mom Chilling In The Grass Nearby

Umbrella Acacia Trees Along The Road Into The Crater

Umbrella Acacia Trees Along The Road Into The Crater

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